Visit any place in the world and the advice on where to eat is always “Go where the locals go”, and in Hepburn Springs, that place is the little restaurant with the odd name.
For more than a decade The Surly Goat has been a favourite with locals and those in the know for its great food, wine and atmosphere. Tucked away in a corner of town, it’s a cosy place with just the right amount of chatter and bustle to make it both lively and intimate.
“It’s the type of place I like to go when I eat out,” says owner and Head Chef David Willcocks. “Casual, fun, fine dining done really well.”
After nearly eight years as restauranteur, David and his team have finessed the menu, as well as the wine list, focussing on the freshest and best produce available.
“You reach a point where you realise the best ingredients require very little manipulation to be a spectacular dish. I prefer to keep flavours light and clean and everything is prepared with a light hand.
“When you buy well, you don’t need do too much. The produce speaks for itself.”
The Surly Goat offers a set menu that David and his team plan each week, all dependent on what can be sourced.
“Nature dictates what we serve and we try and support local suppliers first because we have some amazing stuff nearby. We’re fortunate to be surrounded by growers, producers, distillers, wine makers and brewers. By building a menu around those guys, we’re able to link the farmer to the consumer in the best way.
“It’s always been a locally oriented business. It’s one of the reasons we bought it and how we want it to stay.”
Set menus are a concept that many restaurants have embraced in recent times and one that David feels really delivers the best value to the customer.
“Our menu is set up like it would be if you were visiting a friend’s house, starting with snacks and moving through the courses. The format allows us to concentrate our efforts into one great meal and maximise the ingredients by using every part. There are three or four items on a plate and each item is there for a reason. Nothing goes to waste because one dish feeds into the next.
“It’s a very fluid environment and the menu is constantly changing. Sometimes it even changes during service. I understand that the unpredictability of the menu is not for everybody, and some people won’t like every dish, but that doesn’t diminish the quality. Sometimes you just have to go with it and trust we will provide you with a quality, high value meal.”
The reputation of The Surly Goat has spread beyond Hepburn Springs, even more so since the restaurant obtained a Chef’s Hat from The Age Good Food Guide earlier this year.
“I’ve noticed more people in the hospitality industry are coming to see us now and it’s always nice to get recognition from your peers. We have an amazing team so I’m happy to see the staff rewarded.
“Service is major part of The Surly Goat experience and I think that goes a long way to making a good restaurant. It’s never just food.
“Now that we have a hat it will be up to us to maintain it but that’s a good thing. We’re always trying to improve who we are and I love that challenge.”
Although long term menu planning is not something David likes to do, he does have a few ideas of what patrons can expect this season.
“We’re usually picking mushrooms in winter, maybe some cabbage and mustard greens. Cold water fish gets fattier and sweeter in winter too so we’ll look for some of that.
“We also like to do the occasional Sunday roast in the colder months, and Saturday lunches are a real hidden treasure. Of all the services we do it’s the one where people have the most time to sit, relax and enjoy the meal. It’s the most popular with our regulars.
“We’ve always maintained that the restaurant has to be a place our friends can come to and that people can keep coming back to. That’s why we like to stay small, keep it simple and keep it high value. And it’s working for us.”
The Surly Goat serves its weekly menu for dinner from Thursday to Saturday and lunch on Saturday. Pop up events such as Sunday roasts and weekend barbeques (in the warmer months) are advertised on social media and the website.
Bookings can be made online and follow @surlygoat on Instagram for the latest news, menu items and events.
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